Problems with Princess Seams or The Girls Have Gone South

Well, let me update you first - the coat is still in the same state it was at the time of the last post here :( Too many other things took over, and I just never got back to it.

I also have a few tutorials to add here, that I've been saving up. I'll try to get those up and posted soon!

But today, how to handle the problem with Princess Seams and the girls having gone South - to stay! I didn't want to fiddle with that curve in the seam, trying over and over again to get it at just the right place. I do have other things to do! So, I sewed the princess seams the way they were on the pattern, and then added extra to the top of the shoulder.

Of course you know, now the sleeve won't fit in correctly. So, I cut the same amount out of the middle of the sleeve, and added the same amount of lace!

This could also mess up the collar line as well. But I'm not going to fiddle with that either. The front facings come up far enough, then I'm going to bias tape across the unfinished seam, across the back, to the other side of the front facing.

It's summer, and I think some nice, lacy inserts will be lovely in a new blouse. I'll try to remember to show you how it turns out!

Making a Coat

Well, Sew Much Talent has me sewing again! This month the challenge is February Fantasy Month. And we are to make or do something we've always wanted to do, but never have. Mine is ....Making a Coat.

This is a velvet corduroy, I've had it for a few years,  I knew I wanted to make a coat out of it, so this is the month!

I have the fabric, the lining, the pattern... everything but the courage. Yes, you can call me the Cowardly Lion. :) So, on Saturday I got everything out and started. After some measuring, it was apparent the patten would need some length adjustments in three places! That's three places time 5!!!! (the front and back, the front and back lining, and the front facing) Well, that took me 2 days!

And I still need to make adjustments to the sleeve, but at least I have the front and back linings done and cut out. I'm using the lining for my muslin. I have yards of this lining, so if I need to cut a new piece I have plenty.

I hope to work on it some more today!

It's been awhile

since I posted, I did have some projects I could have posted about, but then I forgot about this blog. That's the trouble I have - forgetfulness. But I was thinking today that I'd start a sidebar thing called Tips. I'm going to put up the tips I have, but if you have some, I'd be happy to put yours up too! So, off I go to do that, I have two to start with......

Enlarging a Little Pair of Shorts

My DIL gave me a pair of shorts Riah loved, and looked so cute in them, but they were getting too small. I said I'll make them bigger, so they will fit her. (what was I thinking, I had no real idea how to do this) However, between then and now, I read some things here and there, saw some blogs which told about grading pattern, and saw some pictures of pattern pieces made larger - so I just combined all that into one piece and this is the results!

I didn't want to spend the time taking the shorts apart. So, I folded them carefully, so I could copy the shape of the front and the back onto some paper.

You can see where I cut apart the pattern. 1/2" each way.

I also wanted to enlarge the front outside pocket, but I didn't want to get involved with the curve, so I made my cut lines closer to the seam, and close to the curve, but just missing it.

See the dotted line on the pocket pattern underneath? That's where the waistband was. The pocket extended over the waistband, to make a belt loop.

This is the back pocket, which I also enlarged. But I only wanted to cut that corner once. So I measured out 1/2" seam allowance around one curve.

Then I folded it in half, to be sure both curves would be the same. 

I always try and make my muslins from fabrics that can be worn 'if it all turns out ok' :) I happen to have about 10 yards of this fabric, so if I need to make another pair, I can still use the same fabric, which is so 'little girl' :) 

The fly wasn't 'real' so I need to know where to sew my seam up the front. Handy dandy bendable ruler works for that! 

 

 

I wanted a front waistband and a back waistband. The back waistband had elastic in it, and the front had the belt loops from the pockets and a button above the fake fly. 

You can see here where I need to cut (pencil mark) for the waistband. I cut this length and 3" wide, so I could fold it over. If it had been a 'real' pair of shorts, I would have put interfacing inside that front waistband. 

Sewed the front fake fly. 

And pinned on the waistband

Now, these pockets. I really didn't want to mess with turning under that curve on two pockets. 

So, I cut out 4 of them, and sewed them together, right sides together, trimmed the edges close, clipped the inside seams and turned them inside out and pressed them. Much easier. 

Added the pockets, sewed around the outside edge, and right at the waistband. (click on the pictures to make them bigger, you'll see what I mean.)

Decided to do the same to the back pockets. But before I turned them right side out, I folded over the edges and pressed. That way, when I turned the right side out, they would be all ready to stitch closed. 

See? :) 

All ready for her to try on. The back waistband has the elastic in it, I just need to adjust it around her tummy!

The original shorts.

Dress to Client 2 is on it's way!

It took me longer to finish the dress than I anticipated. After she tried on the muslin, there were 4 things that needed changing.

• The neckline too low, and the armholes too big which was solved with the same fix

• Too long

• She wanted more 'a-line' in her A-line skirt.

• There was too much 'poof' in the front

All easy fixes. She wanted 1 1/2" off the front and back shoulder. Here is how I adjusted the pattern -

Then I had to adjust the back neckline to match the shorter shoulders. A little bit on the front, but that was cut off when I cut out the fabric!

So, then I took in the front bodice a bit, to eliminate a little of that poof, so as not to have so much gathering.I took an inch off of the fold, which really meant 2" were taken out of the front. (both sides of the fold line)

Then, to add more a-line to the skirt, I had to use some paper in order to draw a little more flare on the side.

A few adjustments with my eraser and pencil line and it turned out just fine.

Once all those changes were made, I was able to cut out the dress. Cream on the top and lavender on the bottom.
Here is the skirt with extra 'A'

And the finished dress. Some closeups below -

Nice, thread belt loops. And a self tie belt that does hang below the waist in the picture, but once you get a woman in the dress, it won't. :)

I wasn't quite sure how to treat the edges. Did I want facings? or a lining? not so much. In the end I asked for advice on my sewing list and a narrow binding seemed to be the way to go. I cut 1" strips, sewed with right sides facing, then I pressed them over, and pinned. I hand sewed a small running stitch in the ditch and was very happy with the way they turned out.
My client has promised me a picture of the dress being worn, and I'll share that with you when it arrives.

That is the end of the cream/lavender dress!

Client #2 Muslin Received

My client received her muslin yesterday and tried in on, and took pictures for me. She's great!!! I asked her if I could show her picture here, if I blocked out her face - not because she's ugly :) she's a beautiful woman, but because of her privacy. She agreed. So, now you can see how it fits, and the changes I need to make.

So, I'm going to need to cut off 1 1/2" from the top of each shoulder, adjust the back neckline accordingly.

And take off 1" from the length, and put a bit more A-line in it. Otherwise, she's happy with it.

I can't wait to see it on her in the real fabric, a beautiful jersey that will hang beautifully on her, the drape of this fabric is delicious! :)

Adjusting pattern next, sewing fabric soon!

More later - karen

Progress on Client #2 Dress

Well, today I finished the muslin and while I had hoped to get it mailed off today, it will be mailed off tomorrow. Also, my clients fabric arrived today, oh it's so pretty! :)

It's cream and lilac. The cream will be on the top, the lilac for the skirt. And here is the muslin (she's waiting to see this pic too!) :)

The entire dress and here is a closeup of the top-

And off it goes, into the wild blue yonder via USPS! :)
Next, my flower girl dresses were received by the bride, she loves them so much, she wants one more!!! So, I've quickly ordered feathers and more tulle