Enlarging a Little Pair of Shorts

My DIL gave me a pair of shorts Riah loved, and looked so cute in them, but they were getting too small. I said I'll make them bigger, so they will fit her. (what was I thinking, I had no real idea how to do this) However, between then and now, I read some things here and there, saw some blogs which told about grading pattern, and saw some pictures of pattern pieces made larger - so I just combined all that into one piece and this is the results!

I didn't want to spend the time taking the shorts apart. So, I folded them carefully, so I could copy the shape of the front and the back onto some paper.

You can see where I cut apart the pattern. 1/2" each way.

I also wanted to enlarge the front outside pocket, but I didn't want to get involved with the curve, so I made my cut lines closer to the seam, and close to the curve, but just missing it.

See the dotted line on the pocket pattern underneath? That's where the waistband was. The pocket extended over the waistband, to make a belt loop.

This is the back pocket, which I also enlarged. But I only wanted to cut that corner once. So I measured out 1/2" seam allowance around one curve.

Then I folded it in half, to be sure both curves would be the same. 

I always try and make my muslins from fabrics that can be worn 'if it all turns out ok' :) I happen to have about 10 yards of this fabric, so if I need to make another pair, I can still use the same fabric, which is so 'little girl' :) 

The fly wasn't 'real' so I need to know where to sew my seam up the front. Handy dandy bendable ruler works for that! 

 

 

I wanted a front waistband and a back waistband. The back waistband had elastic in it, and the front had the belt loops from the pockets and a button above the fake fly. 

You can see here where I need to cut (pencil mark) for the waistband. I cut this length and 3" wide, so I could fold it over. If it had been a 'real' pair of shorts, I would have put interfacing inside that front waistband. 

Sewed the front fake fly. 

And pinned on the waistband

Now, these pockets. I really didn't want to mess with turning under that curve on two pockets. 

So, I cut out 4 of them, and sewed them together, right sides together, trimmed the edges close, clipped the inside seams and turned them inside out and pressed them. Much easier. 

Added the pockets, sewed around the outside edge, and right at the waistband. (click on the pictures to make them bigger, you'll see what I mean.)

Decided to do the same to the back pockets. But before I turned them right side out, I folded over the edges and pressed. That way, when I turned the right side out, they would be all ready to stitch closed. 

See? :) 

All ready for her to try on. The back waistband has the elastic in it, I just need to adjust it around her tummy!

The original shorts.

Dress to Client 2 is on it's way!

It took me longer to finish the dress than I anticipated. After she tried on the muslin, there were 4 things that needed changing.

• The neckline too low, and the armholes too big which was solved with the same fix

• Too long

• She wanted more 'a-line' in her A-line skirt.

• There was too much 'poof' in the front

All easy fixes. She wanted 1 1/2" off the front and back shoulder. Here is how I adjusted the pattern -

Then I had to adjust the back neckline to match the shorter shoulders. A little bit on the front, but that was cut off when I cut out the fabric!

So, then I took in the front bodice a bit, to eliminate a little of that poof, so as not to have so much gathering.I took an inch off of the fold, which really meant 2" were taken out of the front. (both sides of the fold line)

Then, to add more a-line to the skirt, I had to use some paper in order to draw a little more flare on the side.

A few adjustments with my eraser and pencil line and it turned out just fine.

Once all those changes were made, I was able to cut out the dress. Cream on the top and lavender on the bottom.
Here is the skirt with extra 'A'

And the finished dress. Some closeups below -

Nice, thread belt loops. And a self tie belt that does hang below the waist in the picture, but once you get a woman in the dress, it won't. :)

I wasn't quite sure how to treat the edges. Did I want facings? or a lining? not so much. In the end I asked for advice on my sewing list and a narrow binding seemed to be the way to go. I cut 1" strips, sewed with right sides facing, then I pressed them over, and pinned. I hand sewed a small running stitch in the ditch and was very happy with the way they turned out.
My client has promised me a picture of the dress being worn, and I'll share that with you when it arrives.

That is the end of the cream/lavender dress!

Client #2 Muslin Received

My client received her muslin yesterday and tried in on, and took pictures for me. She's great!!! I asked her if I could show her picture here, if I blocked out her face - not because she's ugly :) she's a beautiful woman, but because of her privacy. She agreed. So, now you can see how it fits, and the changes I need to make.

So, I'm going to need to cut off 1 1/2" from the top of each shoulder, adjust the back neckline accordingly.

And take off 1" from the length, and put a bit more A-line in it. Otherwise, she's happy with it.

I can't wait to see it on her in the real fabric, a beautiful jersey that will hang beautifully on her, the drape of this fabric is delicious! :)

Adjusting pattern next, sewing fabric soon!

More later - karen

Progress on Client #2 Dress

Well, today I finished the muslin and while I had hoped to get it mailed off today, it will be mailed off tomorrow. Also, my clients fabric arrived today, oh it's so pretty! :)

It's cream and lilac. The cream will be on the top, the lilac for the skirt. And here is the muslin (she's waiting to see this pic too!) :)

The entire dress and here is a closeup of the top-

And off it goes, into the wild blue yonder via USPS! :)
Next, my flower girl dresses were received by the bride, she loves them so much, she wants one more!!! So, I've quickly ordered feathers and more tulle

Client #2 Dress

I've been commissioned to make a simple knit dress, with gathering at the neckline/waistline, a waistband between the top and the skirt with clean simple lines. After receiving the clients measurements, I used an existing pattern to create the top. Well, I changed the existing pattern, but it gave me a start at the correct shape. Then, I made the skirt pattern simply from her measurements.

I'm making a muslin, and since the fashion fabric is knit, I need to make the muslin in knit. I have some, again mostly acquired from Mystery Boxes or Fabric Bundles from Fabric Mart. Most of what I receive from them are awesome fabrics I can use, but there is the occasional clunker. This is one of them. I asked my client if she could separate the ugly fabric from the fit, and she said it was no problem. So, I have the pattern made, the muslin cut out. It won't take so long to sew it up, I do hope to mail it tomorrow.

Well, now you see what i mean by ugly fabric. It's also got marks on it, like it's been soiled by the machinery. I've washed it, but they didn't come out. So, it's not good for much other than a muslin.

More later, after I get to sewing!

Remake Completed - Maybe

Well, I finished my top last night and this morning. After I finished it last night and wore it for about an hour - sometimes you need to wear things before you can find the problems in them - when I noticed the sleeves had a tendency to slip down over my shoulders, kind of a gypsy look! :)  Well, since I'm not 22 anymore, this doesn't work for me.

Last night I still had to put the other sleeve on. Which means I had to make sure I repeated my mistake with the lace. I didn't. I put it on correctly. I had to rip one side. :( But when I finally got it right, I took pictures of the process of putting the sleeve on.

Zig zag over crochet thread for easy gathering

Once gathered, I did 3-4 rows of wide zig zag stitch to hold the gathers together and to flatten the end of the sleeve which was quick thick and wavy.

On the back side of the strap, random pleats pinned in, and then attached to the main garment

Both sleeves attached, now to tackle the back seam.

Sometimes it's a fun idea to put your embellishment on the back, rather than the front!

The sleeves kept falling down over my shoulders, making me look a little hussified... 
So, my idea was to do a 'lingerie strap holder', since the sleeves keep falling down. I cut a piece of velcro, sewed one side of velcro to the wrong side of a velvet ribbon (so the velcro wouldn't irritate by skin) and then sewed that to the inside of the sleeve -

It turns out I can't manage the strap holders myself, I have to have someone else do them. And they kept shifting, so either the front or back of the shirt sleeve was gaping. Otherwise known as 'driving me crazy'!!!! I meant to get a picture of it on me and will try to this morning.

But I've come to the conclusion that the strap holders won't work, maybe a few pleats in the top of the shoulder, or a seam to shorten the sleeve altogether. I don't know yet, but I don't like wearing it when I constantly have to adjust it.

I took off the velcro things, and added 3 small pleats to each sleeve on the neck edge. I had Mike take a picture of before and after, but I do believe they were swallowed up by the internet. (can't find them on the card) Anyway, I declare this project finished, and am moving on to the next one. This is for a client, and before I post her project on here, I need to get her permission.

Skirt to Shirt

I wish I had taken Before pictures, but I didn't. So, we'll start with Middle Pictures.
First, I cut the skirt apart, took out the invisible zipper and saved it in my zipper box. That left me with the entire width around of the skirt. I serged the top edge to make it straight and smooth, and then zig zagged with a narrow, long stitch some cotton heirloom lace, exactly the color of the fabric! The lace I received in a Mystery Box from Fabric Mart. Love those Mystery Boxes!!!

I wound elastic thread in my bobbin and sewed about 8" of elastic rows. Sewed the seam up the back, and then used the skirt lining for the sleeves.

I cut the lining in half, as I wanted the sleeve to fall down somewhat and cover my wings :) I serged the long edges of them, and sewed the same lace on both sides. However, I made a mistake. One side had the lace on top, other side had lace on the underside. Not inclined to rip it, I decided to fold over the one, leaving the lace edged side for the neck.

Being so wide, I had to gather it, so I used a large zig zag stitch over crochet cotton, and pulled it up tight, till it could be pulled no more.

I noted the middle of the top, and where I wanted the sleeve to go.






This is where I folded over the lace that was sewn to the wrong side. Turn your mistakes into better embellishments for your garment!


The back of the top, where I randomly pleated the width of the fabric and sewed it to the back.



The ribbon trim, which I'll use to cover the back seam.



I have one more sleeve/strap to put on this top, and then it will be finished!